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New-wave wines for a new generation of wine drinkers

Wine makers are having to prove their mettle in catering to the tastebuds of new patrons as well as traditional ones

Food & drink

One of the issues that faces wine producers is the need to adjust to the savors of younger alcoholics without “losing ones” traditional customer base. If you’ve been a fan of, say, rioja for years, more mature, oakier vintages such as Booths’ Gran Norte Rioja Reserva 2011 ( PS12. 50; 13.5% abv) may be most to your savor, whereas if you’re a recent convert, you may prefer a more vibrant style such as the Ramon Bilbao Rioja Vinedos de Altura 2014 ( PS12. 50 Great Western Wine; 13.5% abv ), which went perfectly with the suckling animal I had at a Peruvian restaurant the other day. If you don’t see the words reserva or gran reserva on the label, chances are it’s a modern rather than traditional style.

Gran
Gran Norte Rioja Reserva 2011: serve with grilled pork.

New-wave riojas are more likely to be made by newer wineries or run by the younger generation who have made wine in other countries and are seeking a phase of difference from larger producers who prioritise consistency. Aldonia , for instance, specialises in garnacha rather than the traditional tempranillo, which is one reason for its 15% abv. That’s PS1 2.80 from Tanners( or PS10. 80 if you buy three or more bottles ).

Interestingly, rueda has also changed character from the pungent, citrussy, sauvignon-like style of a couple of years ago to a smoother, lusher, more textured white that would appeal to younger alcoholics. If you’ve never tried it, or it never truly appealed to you( me neither ), you could do a lot worse than enjoy the benefits of the last few days of Waitrose’s 25% -off offer on Beronia Rueda 2015 ( PS6. 99; 13% abv ). You never know, it may end up being your default wintertime white.

Rose, too, has been through various permutations over the past decade. First, it became darker, to combat the idea that it was a wine for wimps- not that Charles Melton’s Rose of Virginia ( PS15. 47 thedrinksshop.com; 13.5% abv) is a particularly butch epithet. Then “its become” paler, in response to the increased popularity of Provencal rose. And now, there are rises that seem and taste more like a light ruby-red: Bull& Gine Rosat ( PS18 Highbury Vintners; and a massive 14.5% ), from Priorat, is a case in point.

There’s an element of fashion to this progression, sure, but also a question of personal savor. Most events I host end up with the chamber subdivided 50:50 over the wines we’re tasting, irrespective of price. If, for example, you like a blanc de blancs( sparkling wine, typically champagne, made from white grapes) that makes a good aperitif, you are not able to take to a richer, toastier blanc de noirs( fizz made from dark-skinned grapes ), which are necessary food to demonstrate it at its best.

matchingfoodandwine.com

Read more: https :// www.theguardian.com/ lifeandstyle/ 2017/ oct/ 26/ rioja-rueda-rose-new-wave-wines-versus-tradtional-fiona-beckett